First report from Africa

It is early on Sunday morning March 20, 2011. I have spent one night at Thapelo’s (with his brother Andile, great guy!) then moved here to Andy and Michelle’s a few miles away for a couple of nights when Christianne and Patrice arrived from Québec – more room, an invitation, and this is where the bike is being prepared for the trip Up Africa. The Black guy in the Braai (African BBQ) picture is Jaki, a Ugandan transplanted here by several years. He is the guy I bought the bike from. He is very tall, soft spoken, funny, and interesting (Professor of Economics/Political Science/Psychology). Very sweet friendly guy. He used the money I paid him, and a lot more, to buy a new Yamaha Tenere which he says he has not yet had a chance to ride off very far on.

I brought a lot of stuff to put on the bike before embarking from Johannesburg on the great adventure – center stand, pivot pegs, pannier boxes and rack, … and a bunch of electrical gadgets. Andy is the mechanic that Jaki found for me.  After we met, he invited us to stay with him and his wife Michelle.

So far, without exception, South Africans of all cultures and colors have been exceptionally friendly, open/candid, hospitable, and laid back. Thapelo (our first Couchsurfer host – look it up at http://couchsurfing.com) had to leave town on business on day one of my arrival. I still have to meet him. But, his brother Andile was a wonderful host and very informative, funny, open about all our discussions – political, racial, historical, personal…. Andy and Michelle are also very friendly and hospitable – and he is a terrific mechanic. He says that now my bike is “the most tricked out Suzuki in South Africa” and it looks good. Except for my helmet cam which I still haven’t figured out how to mount, I’m pretty much ready to go equipment wise. I also still have to sort out the registration and Carnet de Passage for the rest of Africa. Pat’s bike arrives at airport tomorrow.

I’m having a Hell of a time trying to figure out how to communicate with anyone electronically/digitally. Got my new GPS maps for all of Africa yesterday. But, my iPhone doesn’t work here unless I’m in a wifi situation which I’m not almost all the time and even then I think it would cost too much to use it – I can’t get it clearly understood. So, yesterday I got a new phone and SIM card to use in Africa – today I stopped at a gas station and bought some minutes then I can text and phone locally without spending very much at all. I suspect we will be ready to leave here by Wednesday.

I’ve met several biker guys and talked a lot about bikes and traveling in Africa. The food here seems to be good everywhere, but too much meat for my own taste. South Africans of all colors seem to have embraced the end of Apartheid (almost universally) and the country is growing fast and is “Pot of Gold” attractive for hard working aggressive Africans from all over Africa -south of North Africa. Lots of immigrants and people trying to make it here. Black people from lots of places in Africa come here; kinda like poor Mexicans that come to USA - same motivations and energy.

After talking with some Black South Africans – who also embrace the changes since the end of Apartheid and feel hopeful for their own futures here, I think it will be a long time before a White South African (about 8% of the population) becomes President again here. The past abuse of the Black population will take generations to overcome; but, it will happen someday. Socially there is total integration here, culturally not as much, economically not so much – but it’s all coming on, politically not so much because of history and cultural and economic differences. But, “the change” is working toward a very bright future for people of South Africa and no one would want to go back to the “good ole days”.

We have not watched TV or heard the news since arriving here; well we have watched snippets of the World Cup Cricket Tournament which EVERYONE in South Africa is passionate about! So, I’m not sure how the nuclear situation is unfolding in Japan or if Gaddafi is still a mad man or what else might be happening in the wider world.

All for now. In a few days time, I hope to have something adventurous to talk about.